I spent five days walking El Camino del Norte from San Sebastián to Bilbao over Christmas, embracing solitude, coastal beauty, and the unexpected warmth of winter. From quiet albergues to soul-warming meals, each step revealed something new. Here’s a reflective look at my journey—lessons, moments, and memories that made this pilgrimage unforgettable.
Distance: ~22 km
Terrain: Coastal paths, steep ascents, and descents
Weather: Crisp and clear
I should have known better than to trust Google Maps over centuries-old wisdom.
Leaving San Sebastián, I was eager, full of energy, and completely unaware that I was heading in the wrong direction. Instead of following the Camino’s yellow shells and arrows, I relied on technology, only to find myself climbing the wrong hill. It took a few minutes to realize my mistake, but rather than panic, I just took a breath, adjusted, and backtracked until I finally spotted the first yellow shell.
That was my first lesson on the Camino: trust the way, not the app.
Once I was back on track, the climb up Monte Igueldo was just as tough as I had expected, but the views over the Bay of Biscay were spectacular. The golden morning light hit the waves, and for the first time that day, I felt the Camino’s rhythm settle into my bones.
By mid-morning, I was well into the rolling coastal trails, moving toward Orio. The trail dipped in and out of forested areas, switching between coastal views and shaded woodland, making the walk feel ever-changing.
A Much-Needed Stop at The Yellow Deli
I hadn’t eaten much for breakfast—just an apple—and by the time I arrived in Orio, I was starving.
That’s when I stumbled upon The Yellow Deli, a rustic, welcoming spot run by the Twelve Tribes community. It wasn’t just a café—it was a donation-based morning breakfast stop where they offered food and conversation, along with their mission of spreading the word of God.
I sat down, grateful for the warmth of the space and the kindness of the people. The simplicity of the meal—homemade bread, fruit, and tea—felt like a gift after the morning’s long walk. Regardless of faith, there was something comforting about being welcomed in without expectation.
From Orio to Zarautz – Walking with the Waves
Feeling re-energized, I continued along the trail, making my way toward Zarautz. The Camino followed a wooden boardwalk along the beach, where the sea stretched endlessly to my right. The town itself, known for its long stretch of sand and summer surf culture, felt eerily quiet in winter—a contrast I had already started appreciating on this off-season walk.
I arrived at Galerna Zarautz Hostel, ready to rest after the first full day on the Camino. The early misstep in San Sebastián already felt like a lesson learned—trust the yellow arrows over Google Maps, trust the road to take you where you need to be.
That night, as I sat by the water, watching the waves roll in under a darkening sky, I realized that the Camino wasn’t just about moving forward—it was about being present in the journey itself, wrong turns and all.
Lesson of the Day? The Camino is older than the internet. Follow the shells, not the screens.
Day 2: Zarautz to Deba – Walking Through the Pain
Distance: ~22 km
Terrain: Coastal cliffs, rolling hills, forest trails
Weather: Overcast, strong winds, occasional rain
I woke up feeling the shock of the first day’s walk in my body. My legs were stiff, my shoulders ached from carrying my pack, and my feet were already sore. The Camino has a way of humbling you fast—one day in, and my body was already rebelling.
The trail out of Zarautz followed the coastline, offering some of the most stunning ocean views of the journey so far. The walk toward Getaria was physically tough but mentally peaceful—just me, the cliffs, and the sound of waves crashing far below. I was still completely alone, or so I thought.
I didn’t know it yet, but someone else was walking the same route as me, just a few hours apart. We wouldn’t meet until later that night in Deba, but for now, I believed I was the only pilgrim out here.
A Silent Journey to Deba
The long stretches of solitude started to hit me. The Camino in winter is an entirely different experience from the crowded summer months, where groups of pilgrims fill the trails. Today, there was no one. No conversations with fellow walkers, no shared breaks at cafés—just me and the road.
There’s something both freeing and slightly unsettling about that level of quiet. It makes you more aware of your own thoughts, more in tune with every ache in your body, every breath of wind against your face.
By the time I reached Deba, I was exhausted. I had pushed through the day’s walk half in pain, trying to ignore my body’s protests. But arriving in town didn’t bring the immediate relief I expected—I had another small challenge to face first.
The Unexpected Stop at the Police Station
The albergue in Deba wasn’t open when I arrived. There was an old gentleman inside, but he didn’t hear me knocking. For a brief moment, I wondered if I’d be spending the night outside.
I had read that in some towns, you had to check in at the police station to get access to the municipal albergue, so I made my way there, hoping for an easy solution. A few minutes later, I had the keys in hand, finally able to get inside and rest.
The albergue itself was beautiful, well-kept, and welcoming—but there was one problem. It was freezing.
A Freezing Night Without Bedding
I hadn’t brought any bedding or a sleeping bag, assuming the albergues would have enough blankets. Big mistake.
That night, I kept waking up shivering, doing my best to position myself under the small heat lamp, trying to squeeze out whatever warmth I could. The room was quiet, almost too quiet, and I felt every hour pass as I drifted in and out of uncomfortable sleep.
Little did I know, I wasn’t actually alone. Another pilgrim was doing the exact same route as me, just slightly behind, and we would meet soon enough. But for now, I spent the night in Deba, curled up under my coat, learning the hard way that winter on the Camino doesn’t forgive poor planning.
Lesson of the Day? Bring a sleeping bag. And if an albergue looks closed, check the police station first.
Day 3: Deba to Ziortza-Bolibar – The Longest Day
Distance: ~34 km
Terrain: Rolling hills, forest trails, quiet countryside roads
Weather: Overcast, misty, and cool
Step Count: ~52,000
Elevation Gain: ~210 floors climbed
This was the longest day on the Camino so far—not just in distance, but in everything that came with it.
The plan was simple: walk from Deba to Markina-Xemein, a reasonable distance for the day. But the unexpected closure of the albergue in Markina meant I had to push further to Ziortza-Bolibar, adding extra kilometers to an already full day. It wasn’t unbearable, but it was definitely more than I bargained for.
Along the way, I finally met another pilgrim—a French traveler on the same route. After two days of walking solo, it was refreshing to fall into step with someone else, even if just for a few hours. We shared small talk, snacks, and that unspoken Camino understanding that you don’t always need to fill the silence.
The landscape shifted as we moved further inland, leaving behind the steep coastal cliffs and replacing them with gentle countryside, dense forests, and occasional villages. The climbs were steady but manageable, with muddy sections slowing us down in places. Despite the extra distance, the scenery and the steady rhythm of walking made the day pass quicker than expected.
The Goat That Almost Ended It All
With Ziortza-Bolibar finally in sight, we hit one last unexpected obstacle—an aggressive goat.
It stood dead center on the path, unmoving, watching us with that look only stubborn animals can give. We slowed down, hoping it would move. It didn’t. Instead, it lowered its head slightly, letting out a grunt that sounded a little too much like a warning.
For a solid minute, it was a standoff—two tired pilgrims versus one determined goat.
Neither side moved.
We debated trying to go around it, but the trail was narrow, lined with bushes and uneven ground. Just as we were about to consider a long detour, the goat lost interest, turned, and wandered off like nothing had happened.
We laughed at how ridiculous the situation was. After a full day of walking, was a goat really going to be the thing that stopped us?
Finally Reaching Ziortza-Bolibar
As night fell, I finally arrived at my accommodation in Ziortza-Bolibar, while my French friend stayed elsewhere in town. The quiet village, surrounded by hills, felt like a world away from where we had started.
I wasn’t completely drained, but I could definitely feel the weight of the day. This was also when I realized that my backpack wasn’t ideal for long-distance walking. The lack of a waist strap meant all the weight was on my shoulders, something I hadn’t noticed much on shorter days but became very obvious after 34 km.
I fell asleep quickly that night, already knowing that tomorrow would bring another long walk—but hopefully fewer goats.
Lesson of the Day?
Not all albergues will be open—always check ahead.
A well-designed backpack makes a huge difference.
Sometimes, the smallest obstacles (like a goat) feel bigger when you’re near the finish line.
Day 4: Ziortza-Bolibar to Pozueta – Meeting the Nomads
Distance: ~19 km
Terrain: Rolling hills, countryside paths, quiet roads
Weather: Cool and overcast, with breaks of sunshine
By this point in the Camino, things started to feel different. The rhythm of walking, the quiet mornings, the routine of setting off into the unknown—it all felt normal now. My body had adjusted, the weight of the backpack (despite its flaws) felt manageable, and I was no longer overthinking every step.
But today wasn’t just about the journey—it was about the people we met along the way.
Meeting the Hungarian & The Man Who Walked From Norway to Rome
Leaving Ziortza-Bolibar, my French Camino companion and I picked up another traveler—a Hungarian gentleman who, as he casually mentioned, hiked for fun in his free time. Unlike us, who were still finding our stride, he seemed effortless in his movements, walking as though he could go on forever.
But he wasn’t even the most interesting person we met that day.
Somewhere along the trail, we crossed paths with an Italian pilgrim, and his story left us completely speechless.
He had walked from Norway to Spain, then continued to Rome—a journey that spanned multiple years and thousands of kilometers. His routine? Work for three months in the summer, then spend the rest of the year walking. That was his life.
He spoke with wild eyes and passionate hand gestures, telling us stories of sleeping in abandoned buildings, walking through entire countries, and relying on the kindness of strangers. There was a madness to his energy, but there was also something captivating about his way of life—as if he had completely rejected the world’s expectations in favor of something pure, raw, and untamed.
"Why stop?" he asked, as if the idea of living in one place was the truly crazy concept.
He carried almost nothing, just the essentials, and he moved at a pace that suggested he was in no hurry, yet could outwalk any of us without effort.
After a few kilometers together, he went his own way, continuing on like a wandering spirit of the Camino, leaving us shaking our heads in awe.
Exploring Guernica – A Town Destroyed by War, Immortalized by Picasso
As we continued, we ventured into Guernica, the town bombed by Nazi Germany in 1937 during the Spanish Civil War. The attack was one of the first aerial bombings of civilians, and it became world-famous after Picasso captured the horror in his painting, Guernica.
Even though the town has been rebuilt, there’s still an undeniable weight to its history. Walking through it, knowing what had happened here, felt different from the other towns—as if the echoes of war still lingered beneath the surface.
We stopped for lunch in the heart of Guernica, enjoying a peaceful afternoon in a place that had once been reduced to rubble. It was a strange contrast—sitting in a quiet café, eating a warm meal, knowing that just decades ago, this was the site of destruction.
A Homey Stay in Pozueta
After the history-heavy stop in Guernica, the rest of the walk toward Pozueta felt lighter. The landscape was gentle and rolling, the kind of terrain where you stop paying attention to distance and just walk.
That night, we had one of the most comforting stays of the journey—in the back of a farmhouse, where we were welcomed like part of the family. It was small, cozy, and exactly what we needed after four days of long walks and cold nights.
Sitting by the fire, talking about the day, we laughed about our encounters—the Hungarian speed-walker, the Italian nomad, the eerie silence of Guernica. The Camino had a way of bringing together the strangest mix of people, and each one added something to the journey.
Lesson of the Day?
The Camino isn’t just about the walking—it’s about the people you meet.
Some people live to work, others work to walk.
History changes places, but some places never forget.
Day 5: Pozueta to Bilbao – The Final Steps
Distance: ~22 km
Day 5: Pozueta to Bilbao – The Final Steps
Distance: ~22 km
Terrain: Flat city paths, rolling countryside, urban roads
Weather: Cool and partly cloudy
The last day of any journey is always filled with mixed emotions.
On one hand, there was a huge sense of relief—I had walked over 120 km in 5 days, something that had once felt impossible. My body had been pushed, my mind had adjusted, and now, standing on the final morning of the Camino, I knew the end was just a few hours away.
But on the other hand, there was sadness.
I had met incredible people—fellow walkers who had unknowingly become a small Camino family in just a few short days. The shared miles, the quiet conversations, the ridiculous moments (including a rogue goat encounter)—they had all become part of the story. And now, it was coming to a close.
Smoother Walking, Livelier Stops
The walk from Pozueta to Bilbao felt very different from previous days.
The hardest climbs were behind us, and today’s route was flatter, more urban, and noticeably busier. Gone were the empty trails and isolated hills—we were gradually re-entering the real world.
A few lively cafés in Lezama gave us a chance to rest, grab a coffee, and soak in the morning buzz. Unlike the quiet, rural cafés from previous stops, these were full of people, energy, and conversation—a reminder that we were getting closer to city life again.
As we walked, we talked about everything:
The best (and worst) moments of the journey.
The strangers we met who somehow became part of our story.
How weird it would be to wake up tomorrow and not put on our boots.
Walking Into Bilbao
As we crossed into Bilbao, it didn’t feel real. The transition from rural Camino to city streets was so gradual that, suddenly, we were just… there.
The skyline shifted, the Guggenheim Museum loomed ahead, and the quiet isolation of the past days was replaced by the hum of city life. Cars, pedestrians, Christmas decorations—Bilbao was alive, and we were stepping right back into it.
There was no dramatic finish line, no official checkpoint to say, You did it!—just the feeling of having walked somewhere meaningful.
A Perfect Camino Ending: Christmas Markets & 5 Guys
That night, we celebrated the journey together, wandering through Bilbao’s Christmas markets. The warm glow of lights, the festive buzz, the smell of mulled wine and roasted chestnuts—it was the perfect contrast to the long, empty roads we had walked.
We had done it. Five days, 120+ kilometers, countless memories.
And while the Christmas markets were a beautiful way to close out the experience, I needed something else—something only a real meal could fix.
After all the pintxos, all the quiet café stops, all the moments of reflection, I desperately needed a proper burger.
So I ended my Camino in the most ridiculous, most fitting way possible: with a Five Guys burger in the middle of Bilbao.
The journey was over. But as I bit into that overpriced, greasy, absolutely perfect burger, I realized—the Camino never really ends.
Lesson of the Day?
The end of the Camino is just the start of something else.
Big journeys are conquered one step at a time.
Five Guys tastes infinitely better after walking 120 km.
Buen Camino.
Lessons Learned & Improvements for Next Time
The Camino is one of those experiences that teaches you something new every single day—about yourself, about your limits, and about how small details can make a big difference when you’re walking long distances. After 120 km in 5 days, I came away with a deep appreciation for what worked and what could be improved if I ever do this again.
Here are my biggest lessons learned and what I would change for next time.
1. Trail Shoes Were a Game-Changer ✅
One of the best decisions I made was bringing a great pair of trail shoes. Unlike heavy hiking boots, they were lightweight, flexible, and had excellent grip, which made all the difference in muddy, wet, and steep sections of the trail.
🟢 What worked:
✔ Lightweight, so they didn’t add unnecessary strain
✔ Good traction, especially on wet and rocky paths
✔ No blisters or discomfort, even after five long days
Would I change anything? Not at all. Trail shoes over hiking boots any day.
2. My Backpack? Not So Great. ❌
My biggest regret was using a backpack without a waist strap. Over short distances, I didn’t notice the issue, but after multiple days of walking, it became clear that all the weight was sitting on my shoulders instead of being properly distributed across my hips.
🔴 What went wrong:
✘ No waist strap = unnecessary back and shoulder strain
✘ Slightly too big for what I actually needed
✘ Became a burden on longer days
🔄 What I’ll do next time:
✅ Get a proper backpack with hip support
✅ Reduce my pack weight even further
✅ Test it on long walks before the trip
3. Water is Heavy—A Better System is Needed 💧
One of the most annoying parts of the walk? Carrying water. It’s absolutely necessary, but it’s also one of the heaviest things in your pack. I found myself constantly debating how much to carry—too little and I’d risk running out, too much and I’d be lugging extra weight for no reason.
🟢 What worked:
✔ Planning out refill stops
✔ Taking advantage of fountains and café breaks
🔴 What could be improved:
✘ A more efficient water system—maybe a hydration bladder instead of bottles
✘ A better understanding of where water sources are ahead of time
🔄 What I’ll do next time:
✅ Use a hydration bladder for easier access
✅ Keep a small lightweight bottle for refills
✅ Plan stops ahead to avoid carrying too much at once
4. Always, Always Confirm Bedding Availability 🛏️
The coldest night of the trip could have been avoided if I had proper bedding. I assumed that all albergues would have blankets, but some don’t, and when they don’t, you feel every degree of winter creeping in.
🔴 What went wrong:
✘ No sleeping bag or liner
✘ Assumed there would be extra blankets (wrong!)
✘ Slept under a tiny heat lamp like a rotisserie chicken
🔄 What I’ll do next time:
✅ Bring a lightweight sleeping bag or liner, especially in winter
✅ Double-check albergue bedding availability before booking
✅ Be better prepared for cold nights in rural areas
Would I Do It Again?
Absolutely.
Walking the Camino del Norte in winter was an incredible experience—challenging at times, but rewarding in ways that I didn’t expect. The solitude, the landscapes, the unexpected encounters—it all made for a journey that I’ll never forget.
Next time, I’ll be smarter about gear choices, more strategic with water, and better prepared for cold nights. But at the end of the day, the Camino isn’t about doing it perfectly—it’s about learning as you go, embracing the unknown, and taking each step as it comes.
Would I change some things? Yes.
Would I do it again? In a heartbeat.
Do you need a hand planning your trip?
Have you walked the Camino de Santiago before? Whether it was the Camino del Norte, Camino Francés, or another route, I’d love to hear your experience!
👉 What was your biggest lesson learned?
👉 What gear mistake did you make that you’d never repeat?
👉 Would you walk it again?
Drop your thoughts in the comments below, and let’s keep the Camino spirit alive!
And if you’re planning your first Camino, ask away—I’m happy to share any tips from my own journey.
Buen Camino! 🚶♂️✨
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